This season’s most anticipated opening is Aster, the first independent venture from chef-founder Joshua Paris, formerly of Michelin three-star Ultraviolet.
Aster by Joshua Paris
Aster occupies the second floor of a developing complex on Yongyuan Lu, a quiet street in Jing’an undergoing transformation into a new lifestyle hub. The elevator entrance faces a sprawling lawn, taking guests directly into the restaurant.
The restaurant’s design is understated yet striking — airy ceilings, expansive windows overlooking greenery, and a dining room that seats 46.
A striking bar installation, inspired by the lilac-colored aster flower, anchors the space, while an eight-seat chef’s counter offers a view into the open kitchen. For more intimate gatherings, there’s a private dining room for up to eight people and a terrace accommodating up to 16.
Born in the UK and homed in New Zealand, Australia, and Shanghai, Paris is a chef with a formidable pedigree. He’s trained under luminaries Paul Pairet (Ultraviolet, now closed), Peter Gilmore, and Richard Ekkebus, and brings a wealth of experience — 18+ years — to his debut solo project.
The Food
The cuisine at Aster is borderless — Western in foundation but woven with French, Mediterranean, Asian, and Chinese influences. The menu is concise, spanning just two pages, each dish meticulously crafted with seasonality and local sourcing guiding its evolution.
From what I had, the three must-order dishes are: XL Drunken Pigeon, Poulet Farci, and Assiette of Lamb.
The XL Drunken Pigeon (¥158/half) is fantastic. This Western reinterpretation of the Chinese classic swaps Shaoxing wine for Jura vin jaune, pairing it with chicken gelée and black balsamic. Served cool, the meat is tender, almost silken, with clean, delicate flavors elevated by the gelée’s depth.
Equally memorable is the Poulet Farci (¥268/half), a masterclass in technique. The dish is essentially chicken stuffed with chicken — layers of skin, breast, tender, and farce (chicken stuffing) that have been combined, poached, and then roasted to perfection. Even the accompanying wing is stuffed.
It arrives with ceps and morels cooked in garlic butter, a Madeira-laced chicken jus, and an indulgent albufera sauce enriched with foie gras butter. The dish is so compelling, I found myself begging for bread to wipe the plate clean.
The Assiette of Lamb (¥348) is a three-part lamb dish of textures and intensities: a rosy rack chop, a crisp shoulder croquette, and a rich cube of belly. It’s all united by a robust Provençal lamb jus and accompanied by artichokes barigoule. (The sauce game at Aster is 10/10.)
For starters, the Hamachi (¥128) is a perfect opening act. The hamachi is cured with fennel seeds and kombu, dressed in ponzu, and paired with cherry tomato salad, avocado purée, and a basil-spiked tomato sorbet. It’s bright and fresh with a subtle umami.
The Salt-Baked Beetroot Salad (¥98) is bolder. It delivers with goat’s cheese labneh, candied walnuts, and green apple, tempered by a cucumber-dill-yogurt sorbet. High acidity and vibrant textures make it a refreshing counterpoint to richer mains.
The Potato Gnocchi (¥148) — pillowy and delicate — comes bathed in pesto cream with broad beans, lemon-butter white asparagus, and burrata. A seasonal note: the white asparagus may soon rotate out.
Apart from the three mains mentioned above, other options include the M8+ Wagyu Oyster Blade (¥198/110g), glazed with black garlic teriyaki, and served with hot mustard, pickles, and skewered accompaniments.
For dessert, there is, unsurprisingly, a Pavlova (¥88). (New Zealand and Australia can argue about who invented it first.)
Paris’ version of this crunchy, crumbly meringue dessert features a tropical fruit salad of mango and pineapple, passionfruit curd and jam, passionfruit-mango sorbet and coconut créme. It leans sweet and is sure to revive your tastebuds.
For unabashed indulgence, the Valrhona Chocolate Entremet (¥98) delivers with ganache, mousse, rhum chantilly, and hazelnut tuile. I’d totally order this again.
To Drink
As for drinks, the bar offers house cocktails (from ¥88) and collaborative creations with some of Shanghai’s talented mixologists from venues Bar Mixato, Dreamsicle, Lark, Bar Blanc, and Botanic Collector 2.0.
Wines begin at ¥68/glass, bottles from ¥328.
In Summary
Aster is more than a restaurant — it’s an ever-evolving culinary experience, one that reflects Paris’ creative journey and technical prowess.
Dishes like the Poulet Farci and Drunken Pigeon are destined to become signatures. (I’ve heard that the Salmon dish is also worthy.) Though, it is not a cheap dining experience. The prices on some dishes might push some diners to question its value. There is reasoning — said dishes either use costly ingredients or are time consuming to make. I’m just mentioning it so you’re prepared.
For now, it stands as one of Shanghai’s most exciting openings — polished, inventive, and deeply satisfying.
Aster will move to open six days a week shortly. Weekend brunch launches later in the year.
Aster by Joshua Paris
Click here for the venue listing.
