Shanghai cocktail scene veteran Sam Kuan returns to reopen Barules Shanghai in Jing’an.
The hyper-creative concept wows with custom cocktails, odes to cocktail legend Dick Bradsell, and Barules signatures in an energetic space.
Cocktail lovers, time to seek out this bar!
About Sam Kuan
Sam Kuan is a notable veteran bartender with nearly two decades of experience under his belt.
His Shanghai claim to fame began when he founded the original Barules in 2014, located on Fenyang Lu. It opened during Shanghai’s speakeasy boom; its entrance marked by a telephone booth. High-caliber creative cocktails were shaken and poured, and a host of talented guest bartenders frequented with supporting events. It was mighty popular. That location closed in 2020.
He also runs a sustainably forward cocktail bar Reply in his native home of Taipei, which he opened with acclaimed bartender Luca Cinalli.
Barules Shanghai
Sam Kuan is putting Barules back on the map, reopening the bar on Tongren Lu in Jing’an.
I’ve been assured that it is no longer a speakeasy, however, the entranceway is reminiscent of one. The gateway to the bar is nondescript, a door squeezed between the brick walls, save for a graffiti portrait of Dick Bradsell. Dick Bradsell is a legendary British bartender known for the creation of classic cocktails such as the Espresso Martini, Bramble, and Russian Spring Punch. It’s a hint of what is featured on the drinks menu.
Through that is a small transition room, which I’m told is inspired by a confession box. In Sam’s own words, the bartender is your priest for the night.
The space is contemporary, geometric, and captivating. The bar has a marble counter that stretches across, pockets of seating tuck into the corners of the triangular room, and a stairway leads to the second-floor lounge loft.
The Barules decree and definition of its namesake sits proudly above the bar.
Custom Cocktails
There are three parts to the cocktail program at Barules: custom cocktails, Dick Bradsell classics, and Barules signatures. It is a bible of a menu with pages of ingredients and drinks.
For custom cocktails, they have an astounding 100+ list of ingredients to choose from. These drinks start from ¥88 and may increase depending on your spirits base or ingredients.
You get to choose 2-4 flavors from Fruit, Floral, Herbs, Spices, Tea, Nuts, Rhizomes, and Savory, followed by the strength and mouthfeel, non-alcoholic or spirit-forward, light, bubbly, bitter, etc. They list nearly everything you can think of, including rhubarb, sweet potato, palo santo, corn, goji, mangosteen, soy sauce, cheese, seaweed, and even croissant.
Then you select a spirit base, followed by preference of a short or long drink.
Every drink was fantastic. Even with attempts at making absurd (to me at least) combinations.
A tall drink of white peach, rosemary, and ginseng was light and fizzy, summery and very crushable. It goes down all too easily.
Searching for something savory, I ask for oyster leaf, wasabi, and oolong. It’s sharp with effervescence and dances on the tongue, a combination of strong bubbles and the distinct burn of wasabi, gentle soothed by toasted oolong tea. It was sensational in every essence of the word.
Finally, something a little stronger, osmanthus, eucalyptus leaves, and litsea with whisky. Smooth, smoky, with a floral and herbal hint.
Barules Signatures
Next up are Sam Kuan’s signature drinks from the time of the old Barules.
I’m a sucker for a Bloody Mary, and could not resist the Juarez, made with blanco tequila, sardines, Mexican sangrita, salt, and pink peppercorns. It was thick and dense with a roasted tomato aroma and cracked black pepper, flavored with sangrita, traditionally a mix of orange juice, tomato juice, lime, and hot sauce, and garnished with sardines on toast. All that flavor masks the secret potency of the tequila. *whee*
Another original is the Ole Ole, made with cachaca, tropical fruit, beetroot, mascarpone yogurt, and vanilla. It’s a bright pink drink that screams tropical with a light candy flavor, not too vegetal, not too earthy, clean and smooth with a hint of acidity.
Dick Bradsell Classics
Finally, one could not leave without trying one of Dick Bradsell’s signatures, the Espresso Martini, arguably the most famous. (I’m 100% biased.) It was invented in 1983! This version is made with vodka, sugar, Tia Maria, Kahlua, and espresso.
Barules has a dozen other Dick Bradsell classics on the menu, including The Wibble, Treacle, and Bramble. All classics are done with a twist.
As for food, there are a few snack items, including fries, noodles, and fried chicken with more on the way.
In Summary
I would be surprised if Barules doesn’t get a placement on next year’s 50 Best list. It’s very worthy.
The concept is cool and defined and it presents a unique experience for cocktail seekers in Shanghai.
In terms of the Shanghai cocktail scene, I’d say it’s easily a Top 5 bar for craft, atmosphere, and creativity. It is truly a great experience. Highly recommended.
Barules Shanghai
Address: 304-2 Tongren Lu铜仁路304-2号
Tel: 19916758174
Hours: Mon-Thu & Sun, 7pm-1am; Fri-Sat, 7pm-2am
WeChat: Barules_SH
